### What is it?

This is a list of all common electronics components that I use.

### Why is it cool?

It is my reference when I am picking out components, and it helps when I have a standard set of components that I use.

# Power

I use Microchip's LDO selector for my power requirements: http://www.microchip.com/ParamChartSearch/Chart.aspx?branchID=90004

### MIC5209

500mA, SOT223, good for powering beefy components if heat dissipitation is a concern, has a higher range of voltages (16V) than the MIC5219.

### MIC5219

500mA, SOT-23-5, small land pattern, a good selection for most general purpose uses, smaller voltage range (12V) than the MIC5209.

### MIC5504

300mA, SOT-235, small land pattern, slightly less power. Good if you plan to put switches in the line and they are low power switches. Cheaper, smaller dropout voltage.

### MCP1700

250mA, SOT-23, cheap, small land pattern, good when you don't have a lot of room.

# MCU

Some considerations for MCU costs are that it should have a hand-solderable variant, and should be reasonably well supported. The cost is not a big issue as compared to the ease of programming and development, but a low cost is a definite boon. Here I chose to go with the SAMD series of chips as they are the ARM chip of choice for Arduino, and I find ATMEL Studio to be a relatively conveninent option, especially because of the .

I really like TI's series of TIVA chips because they are so well documented with examples, which are readily available. However, they do not make 'lesser' versions of these chips, and I don't really need a 64 pin chip when all I want to do is to blink a couple of LEDs.

### ATSAMD51G19A

The latest and the greatest. 512KB memory, 192KB RAM. \$4.30/unit. Basically all your code that you squeezed in the SAMD21 fits onto the RAM of the SAMD51. The smallest version comes as a QFN-48 package.

# Resistors and Capacitors

I like the 0603 size because I find that those are the smallest resistors and capacitors that I can handle comfortably. If you are going to do a lot of hand soldering, this is a very important aspect. However, keep note that larger capacitor values are more common with larger sizes. Buy the cheapest ones you can find, and make sure that they are >4V, for a good safety margin. The prices don't differ that much from 6.3V to 16V, so if you can snag a higher voltage tolerance, I'd say do it.

There are two approaches to this. You can buy sample packs from Aliexpress, which will definitely net you a nice range of capacitors, or accumulate them as your projects grow, which will get you the capacitors you need. I do like the growth method because I tend to know what capacitors I need for a given project, and they are usually the same few suspects. You also get them knowing the specs like the voltage range, which a sample pack from China does not avoid. Then again, I've been saved many times when I have forgotten to buy a critical capacitor from the sample pack so both approaches do have their benefits.

For reference, a set of capacitors that I use regularly and almost exclusively are 0.1uF, 1uF, 10uF for power decoupling, and 22pF for crystals. For resistors I use 1k resistors for LEDs and 10k resistors for pullups.

# Crystals

### Generic external oscillator, Abarcon, ABS7

32.768kHz, 12.5pF, small package, paired with 22pF capacitors, good for many ATSAMD chips that use Phase-Lock Loops (PLL) to clock at 48Mhz.

# Switches

### Generic power switch, JS202011SCQN, CK

This is a big gull-wing SMD switch that is good for up to 0.3A. I like this particular switch because it is easy manipulate, and is good for toggling.

### Generic reset switch, TL6330AF200Q & variants

Standard reset button. Small and compact. Some variants can be a bit flat and hard to press at times. Make sure that you solder these on towards the end because the hot air tends to melt the plastic buttons.